Sankyo 101 120V 60 hz motor questions

[Johan de Jong]

No, it's not a mirror image. It definitely looks different that the one in your thread about taking it apart. The metal gears do look like a mirror image of the one you just attached to the previous post.

That is really surprising! Why Sankyo would have made a mirrored version of this motor totally beats me. It does not make any difference for the speed or direction of the outgoing gear.

[Werner1111]

That is really surprising! Why Sankyo would have made a mirrored version of this motor totally beats me. It does not make any difference for the speed or direction of the outgoing gear.

Yes, quite strange. Perhaps it has something to do with the 50/60 Hertz? Mine has an indication that it can be switched between 50/60 hertz, but I haven't looked at it more closely. I'll do that later.

Does anyone know about H drill sizes? When choosing the hole diameter to buy a gear, one can choose H1.0 or M1.0, for example. I have sent this question to kkpmo.com, but haven't heard back yet. I'm familiar with letter and number sizes in the US, and metric sizing, but have never heard of H sizing A google search didn't yield anything either.

[Werner1111]

That is really surprising! Why Sankyo would have made a mirrored version of this motor totally beats me. It does not make any difference for the speed or direction of the outgoing gear.

Yes, quite strange. Perhaps it has something to do with the 50/60 Hertz? Mine has an indication that it can be switched between 50/60 hertz, but I haven't looked at it more closely. I'll do that later.

Does anyone know about H drill sizes? When choosing the hole diameter to buy a gear, one can choose H1.0 or M1.0, for example. I have sent this question to kkpmo.com, but haven't heard back yet. I'm familiar with letter and number sizes in the US, and metric sizing, but have never heard of H sizing. A google search didn't yield anything either, other than the H drill size in the US.

[Johan de Jong]

I was puzzled by that as well. I did some research and think the 'M' is the tighter fit (not 100% sure), so I ordered that to be on the safe side.

[Werner1111]

Still no reply from kkpmo.com, so I messaged again.

Update - I got a response with this link. It's a bunch of hole tolerances and a bit cryptic, but I think H is slightly oversized (looser) and M is slightly undersized (tighter).

https://www.tribology-abc.com/calculators/iso_holes.htm

[Werner1111]

Just a quick update. I haven't abandoned the project. I tracked my 0.9 and 1.0 mm rods all the way from China to Los Angeles, and then the USPS somehow managed to lose the package while it was out for delivery. Well, according to the USPS, the package was delivered, however, I can tell you that it wasn't delivered to me. So I get to start over.

[Johan de Jong]

Oh that is annoying. That has happened to me also once. Bought something from Ali that never got delivered. I got my money back and then bought it somewhere else. But then, months later, out of nowhere, my original order dropped on the doormat! Way too late, but free

[Werner1111]

I ended up filing a claim with USPS and just bought ten 0.9mm x 100mm and ten 1.0mm x 300 rods from Amazon. I originally didn't buy these because I don't have a need for so many, but they got here in two days.

The 1.0 mm rod fits the best. They measured in between 0.95 and 0.97mm, according to my calipers. It was difficult to initially get the rod through the hole in the motor so I sanded down the end just a bit, and then it fit through.

Now that I've figured that out, I will buy the gears drilled witha 1.0mm ID. As discussed before, I'm replacing one unit with two different gears on it, so I will be buying 2 gears for this piece, and also another gear which totally disintegrated that rides on the input shaft. I looked at the 2-gear setup and it has spacers at each end, molded into the piece. Instead of using spacers, would it make sense to just have thicker gears, so that they cover the entire shaft? Then, no spacers are needed at the end. KKPMO doesn't seem to have an option to add spacers to the ends of the gears.

More specifically, the paired gear I need to replace has on 10 tooth gear and another 52-tooth gear. The length of the shaft between the two metal ends is 5.9mm Perhaps I should order one that is 3.5 mm and the other at 2.4mm, so that the total equals 5.9mm. That way I wouldn't need any spacers. I don't think the gears could interfere with one another so long as I get the spacing correct. Any thoughts?

[Johan de Jong]

I think you indeed could use thicker gears, as long as they don't interfere with other gears or the sides of the gearbox.
KKPMO btw does sell spacers separately which they call "micro shaft sleeves": https://shop.kkpmo.com/index.php?cat...t-sleeves.html But I found that the little tubes that come with some spray cans, like WD-40 or deoxit, are perfect for creating spacers. Just cut the length that you need.
Note that there is no need to attach the spacer to the gear.

[Werner1111]

Thanks Johan. That's a great tip using spray can tubes. I'll set it up so that the only the two gears turn together, on the stationary shaft. The spacers will turn but don't need to be connected to the gears. Time to finally order some gears!

[Werner1111]

Another quick update. I ordered gears from kkpmo back on Nov 17. Since Nov 22, they've been sitting in NYC, I'm guessing in customs. Or they got lost. I'm batting 0.000 on deliveries here. I was looking at the clock over the weekend, disassembled on my workbench, and realized I was going to have to think hard about how it goes back together! I'll figure it out, but it's been sitting there since October waiting for various parts.

[flipoclock]

I hope you took some pictures during disassembly, if not, that's a lesson learned for next time... I learned this the hard way :-)

[Werner1111]

Well, I think kkpmo has a direct line to the US Postmaster General, because the parts showed up the same day as my prior post (last night). I'll work on the clock this weekend and provide an update.

[Werner1111]

Well, this continues to be a frustrating, but educational adventure. My biggest foe in this has been cyanoacrylate (super glue). I buy it in larger containers and then dole it out into 50ml bottles and install syringe type tips to better manage the flow into the part. Even with just the tiniest drop, the glue found its way to the gear teeth. I worked with a magnifying lamp and tweezers to remove the glue from the teeth, with some success. However, I broke a tooth off of the very thin new gear. On top of that, the plastic bottle of glue had grown brittle and when I started to squeeze it, the bottle essentially exploded and got glue on my clothes. Ugh.

Once everything was in place, the gears were a little tight and would not allow the gear train to smoothly rotate. I withdrew the axle which holds the magnetic drive discs from one of it's two holes, which provided some lateral movement, and that was enough to get things working! I was pretty excited. At this point, I decided to glue the drive gear to the shaft (the one with the metal discs) and see how it would go. This is when the glue got onto the gear teeth causing the mayhem described in the first paragraph.

I really wanted to chuck the clock out the window and/or give up. I think I need to sit on this for a moment. This little motor is such genius and I love it. But I hate it right now. Perhaps I should have bought brass gears instead of the plastic replacements.

TBC

[Johan de Jong]

I recognise the problem. I had the same problem when joining the gears for a Copal motor and these are a lot larger.
What helped a bit was to use superglue gel instead of the normal one.
And instead of applying it from a syringe I suggest to drop some glue on a piece of paper and use a toothpick or something alike to transfer a tiny bit to the gear.

Good luck. I admire your perseverance!