I did this one a while ago. This one had a very, very stuck motor. I use brake cleaner in a small syringe that I apply like oiling the motor and then spinning it. I only use a small amount at the time and keep a piece of paper towel underneath to catch the overflowing brake cleaner. Usually 2 ml brake cleaner totaly applied in small amounts of ~0.3 ml at the time to get the motor unstuck. Brake cleaner evaporate quickly and have never harmed the whirlygig or anything else. I only apply small amount of brake cleaner at the time so there a very small risk of it going anywhere else and damage anything. This work for me and I would not say this is the best way of doing it but for me the brake cleaner I used have been very effective and not harmed anything for me.
In this I used LED supply that I made myself. I took the power from the radio so I didn't need to step down the voltage from the mains voltage. With this supply I use a potentiometer for R2 and a appropriate resistor for R1. There is calculators to calculate which resistor value you need depending on desirable output voltage on the LM317 regulator. I use the potentiometer so I can fine tune the brightness on the LED's. I also use the 2 diodes to protect the input for short circuit and the other diode for output short circuit from the capacitors discharging. The 0.1uF capacitor filters high frequency noise in the LM317 input and the 1uF capacitor is used to stabilize the output. The 10uF capacitor prevents amplification of the ripple as the output voltage is adjusted higher. If someone is interested I can post more detailed information about this regulator?
Here I choose the 365 nm blacklight LED's which is the correct nanometer they used originally. The difference with these LED's is that they do not have a dark blue filter as the original blacklight tube had. So that's why the original blacklight have more of a purple tone while these LED's bleed more of a blue visible light. You will not see very much of that blue visible when installed behind everything. In the right picture you can see the regulator I built.
In this I used LED supply that I made myself. I took the power from the radio so I didn't need to step down the voltage from the mains voltage. With this supply I use a potentiometer for R2 and a appropriate resistor for R1. There is calculators to calculate which resistor value you need depending on desirable output voltage on the LM317 regulator. I use the potentiometer so I can fine tune the brightness on the LED's. I also use the 2 diodes to protect the input for short circuit and the other diode for output short circuit from the capacitors discharging. The 0.1uF capacitor filters high frequency noise in the LM317 input and the 1uF capacitor is used to stabilize the output. The 10uF capacitor prevents amplification of the ripple as the output voltage is adjusted higher. If someone is interested I can post more detailed information about this regulator?
Here I choose the 365 nm blacklight LED's which is the correct nanometer they used originally. The difference with these LED's is that they do not have a dark blue filter as the original blacklight tube had. So that's why the original blacklight have more of a purple tone while these LED's bleed more of a blue visible light. You will not see very much of that blue visible when installed behind everything. In the right picture you can see the regulator I built.
Hope this setup works out for you!
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