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Sony TFM-C650W, digimatical!

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    Sony TFM-C650W, digimatical!

    My first flip clock I restored was a Sony, and from the beginning, I was impressed with it's build quality. The only other Sony I've owned since has been my TFM-C660W, one of the infamous blacklit roller type, which has a failed motor, and apparently the motors in ALL those clocks fail. But regardless of the motor failing, I love that clock, its build quality is SUPERB and it has the best radio I've heard in a flip clock to date. And it has what I consider the holy grail of flip clock features, a SNOOZE BAR!!

    So, I set out to eBay with the intent of finding a similar clock, hopefully in working condition, and an actual flip clock. Well, two weeks ago, I nabbed this TFM-C650W, for $25. The seller took forever to ship out the clock, and I almost cancelled the order, but it showed up at noon today in working, albeit filthy condition.

    The listing said the only issue with the clock was the time set knob missing. I opened the clock, and immediately noticed the dust, holy shit, I've never seen this much in a clock so far. It was attached to everything. I cleaned it out with a vacuum, then compressed air, carefully. The radio had the typical volume potentiometer issues, so I cleaned that. The whole radio circuit and tuner assembly is attached to a part that unclips from the bottom case of the clock.

    I soon found two things, the time set knob was GLUED inside the clock case!! I was very happy to find this, and I sanded the glue off and later was able to use it again. The second thing, this clock is LOW hours. The original neon bulb looks brand new, as do the radio and alarm dial bulbs. I oiled the motor, which to my relief, was a copal II, and not the motor that Sony used in the Digimatic roller clocks.

    I cleaned the plastic radio display, top grills, and front facia, and I think it's come out great. Plus, it's got this nice snooze bar, so now I don't have to wait an hour or so for the radio to turn itself off when I get up in the morning. I'm very happy with this restoration, and in the future I may convert the bulbs to LED minus the neon.


    #2
    Nice clock, nice color too! Good to see you are getting it going again!

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      #3
      Nice photos. That clock looks great. Amazing the missing knob was inside the cabinet. I restored that exact model once myself. I remember having to whiten the case. The snooze bar is a nice feature. Very well built.

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        #4
        What is interesting actually on this clock (only seeing this now) is that the wheel for showing the time of the alarm is made out in white as opposed the usual black. It suits the clock.

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          #5
          Originally posted by flipclock_nl View Post
          What is interesting actually on this clock (only seeing this now) is that the wheel for showing the time of the alarm is made out in white as opposed the usual black. It suits the clock.
          I agree, I think it's my first clock with a white alarm wheel. On that note, does anyone know why most any flip clock radio tends to have the alarm go off for an hour and 20 minutes instead of just an hour?

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            #6
            Lots of dirt! I've seen a lot worse so you got lucky Those Sony models are great units. Looks nice.

            The cyclotron (roller) movements will never have the Copal II motor. They (TFM-C660/770) will have one of 3 types of sealed-type motor similar to the old Telechron types. And, the model you worked on will always have the Copal II unit and never the ones used in the roller clocks.

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              #7
              Couple days in, and it's running great. I'd love to do an LED conversion on it at some point, but for now I'm happy. It's also my official beside clock for the time being. Does anyone know when these were introduced?

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                #8
                1974/1975 according to my Sony factory service manual. I think I have seen some as late '73/early '74, however.

                I have done warm-white LED conversions on these (as well as Panasonic RC-6551s, Sony 8FC-100Ws) and don't really like the cutoff of the LED light wavelength in them, but that's just my preference. Customers have requested them so I do them as desired.

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                  #9
                  I could imagine too much light being an issue for the bulbs they were intended to use, I don't want the alarm wheel to be brighter than the flip tiles.

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                    #10
                    Well, unlike the neon lamps, you can throttle LEDs or use different types that require different voltages to get something with a lower output.

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                      #11
                      Interesting, what did you mean by the cutoff? Just the color profile of the LED's isn't good? I'd be looking for a similar green LED like the bulb in it now.

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                        #12
                        Light cutoff is where the luminance begins to fade. For example when you shine a flashlight a wall there is a defined shape to the light, but it begins to fade as it goes from center to the outer edge. LEDs typically have a harsher transition as opposed to neon or incandescent which are more gradual and natural looking.

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                          #13
                          Here's an example...look at #3-d

                          Lighting Guidelines (blancocountynightsky.org)

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                            #14
                            Oh, you mean the green alarm wheel only...sorry, misunderstood you. LEDs are totally fine for those. I was talking about the neon lamp for the digits.

                            Sorry for the mistake!

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                              #15
                              Ah, how would you control cutoff next to painting half of the LED or creating some barrier to preventing light from going to the wrong places?

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