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Artin 3500 Repair Journey | Broken Spinner Gear & Broken Flip Card

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    Artin 3500 Repair Journey | Broken Spinner Gear & Broken Flip Card

    I'm going to be documenting the repair of this Artin 3500. This is my first flip clock that I bought back in 2020. It was broken, parts only. What were the problems?

    - A flip card had a broken leg, so it wouldn't stay in place.

    - Broken gear. The main spinner gear (I don't know the name) was broken into pieces.

    I discovered this after opening it up. The flip card, I had no clue.

    To gain access to the gearbox, I had to drill out the brass rivets. There's where I discovered the pieces of gear. I glued it back together as best as I could but there's so little torque from the motor, it's not enough to overcome even a tiny imperfection. This this was dead.
    So, discouraged, I put it away until I could think of something better.

    In the meantime, I got into 3D printing. I started off downloading models, then started making my own, then began reverse engineering stuff and making it for myself.

    A few days ago, I put 2 and 2 together and dug out that old clock.

    The first order of business was the flip card. I took some careful measurements and printed out a couple quick samples. The original cards are quite thin, so I had to print these at 0.04 mil layer height (VERY THIN!).

    I think I have the size just right for this clock. I popped it into place and it works perfectly. Flips, flops, doesn't interfere with the wheels on the side... In the right light, it's a little shiny. I may try it with a matte filament.

    For a more clean look, I'll try it with the resin printer at some point. That could give a much smoother surface and potentially make numbers easier to do.

    The gear has been tricky. It's so tiny that it's difficult to get measurements. I a couple models I'd like to print, but my .4 mm nozzle is too big.

    According to my slicing software, a .2 mm nozzle SHOULD be able to print this tiny gear adequately, so I'm going to order one. That opens the door to printing it in nylon like a proper gear. I may also do up some samples in the resin printer.

    I reckon I'll go ahead and model the time adjustment knob while I'm working on it. You never know when/if something happens and it cracks/breaks/disappears. It'll be awful handy to have a backup file so I can just print up a new one.

    Overall I'm happy with the progress so far on this. Being able to model and print these parts has made all the difference in the world. I honestly didn't have a clue how else to repair them - aside from buying a junk clock. I'll post any updates and pictures here.


    #2
    Nice work! I'm curious as to how you plan on marking the digits on the printed piece, will you overlay with white filament?

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks!

      I've been considering my options. I may scan the original digits and just make a stencil. It's going to take some experimentation. If anyone has any ideas, by all means let me know!

      ​​​​​​I was working on some parts earlier today. I replicated the knob in brilliant blue (as a test), so I'm covered if the old one up and walks away in me.

      I also fired up the resin printer and did some test prints.

      The flip cards look great! I'm very happy with how they turned out. The layer lines are only visible because of the intense lighting and the high magnification. ​​​​​​With some black resin, it would practically disappear. From a distance with the naked eye, they look fantastic. It'll take some testing to see how well they hold up to constant motion.

      The gear printed well. Unfortunately the inner diameter was too small, the teeth were wrong, and it was too tall. It's still a good start, and a nice proof of concept. I'll have to tinker with the design a bit more.

      It's getting there!
      Attached Files

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        #4
        Hello and welcome to the forum!

        I had the same problem with the gear in the Artin motor. I replaced it with a gear that I found on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...86539047%22%7D
        This is a double gear and I just cut of the part that I needed.
        An easier (but slightly costlier) alternative is to buy the gear at kkpmo.com: https://shop.kkpmo.com/product_info....-od-3-5mm.html You will need module 0.25 and 12 teeth.

        To repair the tile I can recommend the method using super glue and baking soda as describer here by Mackey: https://www.flipclockfans.com/forum/...ing-flip-tiles
        It may require some practise but it works! I successfully repaired several tiles this way.

        Your 3D printed replicate knob looks very promising. I do not have a 3D printer and have no experience with it but I wonder how you do make a model. Is this just a matter of taking measurements and making a kind of CAD model in the computer, or is there some way you can scan the original?
        Last edited by Johan de Jong; March 13, 2023, 06:04 AM.

        Comment


          #5
          Hi Johan, thank you!

          Let me tell ya, you're a life saver. I didn't even think to buy a gear, and wouldn't have even known what to get. I'll have to wait on it but at least it'll be the proper nylon gear.


          ​​​​​​As for the tile repair, I'll have to practice a bit on my replacements. It would be ideal to keep the clock as original as possible. I'll still continue refining my replacements because ya never know... No one is making new tiles. It can't hurt to have a backup plan.


          ​​​​​​To make the knob, I took a bunch of measurements with my calipers. Ya know, diameter, wall thickness, depths of hollow spaces, stem length, shaft diameter, etc.
          I used Fusion 360 to make the model using the measurements I took. Once I'm happy with it, I export it and load it into my 3D printer. I tell ya, I never get tired of seeing something I created (or recreated) come to life and being able to hold it in my hands.

          ​​​​​​

          Comment


            #6
            It lives! This is the first time this clock has run since... A long time. Certainly the first time since I bought it three years ago.

            With the help of Johan - specifically the details of the gear and the information in the links, I was able to make a duplicate gear.

            I can go into more detail if anyone is interested, but briefly:

            I fed the data into an online gear generator, and use that picture to make an image I could load into my CAD software. After that it was a little trial and error printing it, and here it is!

            Here's a short clip of the motor running.


            I also attached some pictures of the gear. I printed it using a .2 mm nozzle on my 3D printer. I've never used such a small nozzle. I'm sure with a bit of tuning it can print a little neater. Most importantly, it works!

            I lost the nuts so at the moment I have it all loose and sloppy. I put it back together with one of my printed flip cards and made this short video of the clock in action:



            I've had it running for about 30 minutes and it's keeping time well. Only time will tell how the gear holds up. I still may go ahead and order a proper nylon gear as a backup.

            Three years ago when I bought this, I thought it was a goner. I'm very pleased with this repair so far. I'm actually amazed I was able to print a gear so small with FDM printing!

            ​​​​Next step... To access the gearbox I had to drill out the brass support that was pinning it closed. I'm not sure how to go about closing it. Maybe some epoxy like JB Weld? Or maybe I'll print out a shell that pinches it? I'll have to think...




            Attached Files

            Comment


              #7
              Quick update: I printed some nuts to temporarily hold it together while testing.
              Attached Files

              Comment


                #8
                Congratulations, that's a first! I got it confirmed over and over that 3D printing details this small is still not possible. But you did it! I can see it is not perfect, but it is a proof of concept and a good start.

                Regarding the brass posts: the trick is to drill them just unit you can pull the plate free with som force. When you put the plate back it then usually snaps back in place. Some people even don't drill at all and just force the plate off, but I have not tried that yet.
                If it is too loose, I would apply some glue, but not as much that you make it difficult to get in again. Just in case...

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thank you, Johan! I couldn't have done it without your help.

                  Yes, it's a great proof of concept. Most importantly, it is functioning perfectly. This is the smallest item I've ever designed or printed. With more practice with the new nozzle I'm sure I can print it cleaner. I also intend to make a resin print when I get some time - which should be more polished.

                  I've had it running continuously for a week and it's still going strong and accurately keeping time. I intend to run it for a while to see how well the gear holds up, and will periodically open it and document it.

                  That is good advice about drilling out the posts. I should have come here first! Mine are drilled out too much, so when it's time to seal it for good I reckon I'll go with some glue as you say.

                  When I have a chance I'll upload the STL file for the gear to Thingiverse and post a link so anyone else with the same problem (and no patience!) can download it and print out their own.

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