I have a soft place in my heart (some argue that it is actually in my skull) for this model. I had one with a frozen clock motor but otherwise with good radio and good case. I thought I would simply swap out the actual motor with a spare one. As it turns out, the drive gear teeth of all RC-7469 units are NOT the same. Some are more coarse than others. That was the reality in this instance, so a simple swap was not possible.
I turned attention to ways to unfreeze the motor. I used heat from a 12 volt hi-intensity lamp bulb by directly setting the aluminum motor case on the glass bulb. After that, I then put a single drop of 3-in-1 oil on the gear at the brass bushing, and --padding the gear teeth with a cloth -- used needle nose pliers to grip the gear and work it gently back-and-forth. Eventually I was able to turn the gear completely, though the gear-works inside the motor casing where not yet "fluent." I discovered a tiny machine screw in the center of the circular facing. here ws some lacquer sealant on it. I gently removed the screw and added -- one drop at a time -- 3-in-1 oil directly to the tiny hole. as I continued to rotate the gear with the pliers, I noticed that an air bubble would rise through the oil drop and then pop the surface, indicating that tiny quantities of the oils were making their way into the inner gear work. I did this for about ten times; each time wiping away the excess oil from the motor case surface. Eventually, the movement became freer. I reassembled the unit. The fly-wheel rotor with the spiral black-and-white paper that signals "seconds" still does not want to initiate revolutions simply by adding current flow, but a simple tap of the index finger on the unit base immediately underneath the clock now jogs the clock into operation. It keeps time well.
I turned attention to ways to unfreeze the motor. I used heat from a 12 volt hi-intensity lamp bulb by directly setting the aluminum motor case on the glass bulb. After that, I then put a single drop of 3-in-1 oil on the gear at the brass bushing, and --padding the gear teeth with a cloth -- used needle nose pliers to grip the gear and work it gently back-and-forth. Eventually I was able to turn the gear completely, though the gear-works inside the motor casing where not yet "fluent." I discovered a tiny machine screw in the center of the circular facing. here ws some lacquer sealant on it. I gently removed the screw and added -- one drop at a time -- 3-in-1 oil directly to the tiny hole. as I continued to rotate the gear with the pliers, I noticed that an air bubble would rise through the oil drop and then pop the surface, indicating that tiny quantities of the oils were making their way into the inner gear work. I did this for about ten times; each time wiping away the excess oil from the motor case surface. Eventually, the movement became freer. I reassembled the unit. The fly-wheel rotor with the spiral black-and-white paper that signals "seconds" still does not want to initiate revolutions simply by adding current flow, but a simple tap of the index finger on the unit base immediately underneath the clock now jogs the clock into operation. It keeps time well.
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